On the last day of our backpacking venture, after lounging about in Polonnaruwa, we decided to leg it to Badulla to get a desire for some hills and mountains out of our system.
Now Badulla aint no short distance from Polonnaruwa and we found ourselves on the road for a good 5 to 6 hours or so bussing it to Mahiyanganaya and then Badulla. Direct buses from Polonnaruwa to Badulla are less common but Polonnaruwa has a steady stream of buses leaving for Mahiyanganaya from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. But do mind, the last bus to Badulla leaves Mahiyanganaya at about 6 pm.
Badulla Town
Is a pretty modern city. Resthouses are affordable and are easily found after some quick consultation with a friendly tuk tuk driver. We got a comfortable two-bed room for Rs 1000 or so. Food is not included of course but delicious kottu can be had from townside shops.
The weather can get chilly, and a persistent drizzle is common during many months. A raincoat/ umbrella would be handy to have around.
Not Ella
Our original intention was to head over to Ella, a place famous for its natural beauty intertwined with a deep history of lore and er, other such dreamy stuff, but a last minute logistical difficulties forced us to reconsider.
Also, after a week of tiring but happy travel, our city slicker butts were calling out for creature comforts; deeply embarrassing our ‘hardcore’ outer veneers. So when the station master at Badulla railway station said that observation class tickets were only available for Saturday and not Sunday, we seized on the opportunity to leave that very day, convincing ourselves that the famed train ride from Badulla to Colombo in Observation class was worth sacrificing Ella.
It wasn’t of course, nothing short of a life threatening situation is really worth sacrificing Ella for. A day in Ella followed by the train ride we will detail out below would of course have the makings of a perfect trip. But 50% is way better than nothing at all, Confucious say.
The Train
Observation class is the rear end of the train. This end of the carriage is one big glass window affording splendid views of the surrounding countryside. The seats are laid back and comfortable and also feature wider and more tourist friendly windows.
You must ensure to book in advance to be sure of getting one of these coveted seats, especially on weekends. If you are lucky, like we were, you’d be able to snap up a few unbooked seats that sometimes are available. Tickets cost Rs. 750.
The Ride
At first, you may think it romantic to travel in 3rd class seats with first class tickets and you’d be right. Mingling with the people and enjoying the atmosphere of hill country trains can be one of those cliched simple pleasures in life that guide books always talk about. But after a while, 3rd class gets crowded. And you may consider returning to your comfortable first class seats after a while when that old man you are squashed next to starts a coughing fit and that runny nosed little kid wedges himself between you and the window.
The scenery of course, is breathtaking. The railway lines were installed by the Brits roughly two centuries ago to transport tea and coffee crops from the hill country. The train meanders through plantations, tunnels and along ridges that afford sprawling views of waterways and distant hills.
Sit back, relax and enjoy. Take your laptop and 3G dongle if you like. Grab some drinks and food and chill out in observation. The ride takes roughly 10-12 hours and you will soon be overcome with a happy doze as the gentle mountain air caressingly buffets your face.
