Now I’m sure that fort over there is plenty for anybody to look at and all, but what can you really do in Galle? We spent two days there and discovered a few nooks and crannies. Granted most of these nooks were in the Galle Literary Festival, which none of us really took much notice of. As such, the next post is probably going to be a contribution by someone who did take part in a few of the events at the famed GLF. Don’t worry, we haven’t gone soft; this post is about “Jungle Beach”. The name itself screams adventure does it not?

Jungle Beach

So after we rode around the fort for a while and soaked up all the magnificent architecture we could without feeling like constructing the Parthenon with our tent at night, we decided to venture out of the protective walls of the great fort and actually do something. We had heard of a place called Jungle Beach, supposedly an amazing spot to take a dip and just a few minutes out of Galle.

Getting There

Head towards Matara from Galle for a few kilometers(sadly we could not find out the exact number) and you will reach the Ruhunu Cement Factory, technically in Unawatuna. A few meters past this, you will see a road to the right, ask the locals and they will direct you to this turnoff. Everyone in the area seems to recognize the name “Jungle Beach”. Head straight along this road. About a hundred meters in you will face a steep climb going on for a few hundred meters. Dragging bicycles up this makes it feel like a few kilometers. A brave few might try to ride up this steep gradient on a low gear but will give up approximately sixty seconds into this excruciatingly difficult exercise.

This hill turned out to be none other than the Rumassala mountain, supposedly dropped from the grocery bag by Hanuman on his way to a great big continental kitchen.

After a while, the climb becomes less steep and you come to a point on the road where you get a spectacular view overlooking the two stretches of beach that make up Jungle Beach. This is the point where you realize that when they say Jungle, they mean jungle. Not just any jungle either. This is thick jungle on the side of a mountain which requires a man-made path to make headway in. The entire thing is covered in thick greenery like a green afro.

You will end up at a Buddhist temple built with Japanese aid. From here, there will be a little path into the jungle on the right side of the road directly in front of the temple. Head into this path. It is rocky and slippery and in some places overgrown with bushes. You won’t come across snakes or leopards but you will occasionally come across a couple or two making their way on to a lonely rock overseeing the ocean for some “quality time”.

Keep on this path, and you will finally arrive at Jungle Beach. After you confirm that it was indeed worth the trek down the scratchy path, you may take a dip in the cool blue waters. Be warned though, it is only shallow for a distance of about twenty meters out to sea. After that it gets quite deep and choppy. When we got there a German expat who owned a local guest house and was taking a dip in the sea himself gave us some information on the place. Apart from a Navy boat hanging about a hundred meters out, there was nobody else there.

In and Around the Fort

The Galle fort is a fascinating place. It is a functioning part of the Galle city enclosed within the great walls of an old Dutch fort. It is littered with remnants of that era such as the crumbling ramparts themselves and various other buildings dotting the place. Nearly all the buildings in the fort look like they were built by people wearing wooden clogs, but most are relatively new and just made to look like that.

Camping in the Fort

We asked around for places to camp in the fort and were mostly met with blank looks. Most people just didn’t know if it was okay to camp out there. Since we weren’t told not to do it either, we decided to see what happens and just set up the tent on the eastern ramparts. Now that’s one morning view you won’t soon forget. There doesn’t seem to be any opposition to camping around the fort as we did so on two consecutive nights and nobody said anything.

Transport to Galle

If you want to cycle around Galle but are not too fond of sunburn from cycling a hundred odd kilometers from Colombo, you can get the bikes sent via train for a fee of around Rs. 300. Just go to the Colombo Fort railway station’s parcel building(The one towards Pettah, behind the Manning Market) and hand it in. Make sure you have a license for it though, as they are required and quite easy to get at your local Grama Niladhari’s office. They cost a pittance.

The same can be done for bikes being sent from Galle to Colombo. Just try your best to get a license for your bike.

There’s probably more to Galle than Jungle Beach, but we are yet to discover it. Maybe a later trip. For now, have fun at Jungle Beach.

So we went to Galle; via mountain bike. Most of you probably know by now since we surrounded it with as much fanfare as we could, when we weren’t forced to take our bikes into the nearest winkle because parts kept falling off. Surprisingly enough, it wasn’t as taxing as we expected, and Sri Lanka really is that small.

Preparation

First and foremost, bikes. We had regular 21-speed mountain bikes. But the other, cruiser type bikes are easier to ride long distances. Alas, we couldn’t get our hands on a couple. Make sure your bikes are up to the task. Ninety percent of bikes we encountered in the last few months had something broken. Most bikes had problems with the gear system, either not switching gears or having worn out cogs and chains.

For cycling long distances, the higher gears are essential. Take your bike out for a run and check that the chain doesn’t slip when going faster. Most repairs in these parts are cheap. The front cog-wheel set is about Rs. 450 for a new one, and a rear cog-wheel set is around Rs. 280. The chain retails for 200 bucks. Fitting shouldn’t cost much either.

Other areas to check are of course the wheels. If your tires keep going flat by the end of the day, you aren’t going to be able to make it past Kalutara. There are plenty of other things that can go wrong but you’ll just have to use your common sense.

Carry a few tools, like a suitably sized box spanner and wrench. Flat head and Philips head screwdrivers will also be useful. And if you have one, take a properly sized Alan Key for that screw dead in the middle of your handlebars that keeps the steering intact.

Apart from this, take the usual things like a bottle of water each. As for fitness, if you ride regularly, or are at a decent level of fitness, you should be able to make it. We aren’t exactly fitness buffs and we weren’t exactly worn out by the end.

The Route

We took the Galle road, since it was the most direct path to Galle. We were told there are many smaller roads running parallel to it, but those would likely have hindered our progress. The Friday that we set off on was a poya day. But since it made a long weekend, we’re doubtful about it alleviating traffic. We didn’t come across any life-threatening situations, but it would be wise to always keep an ear out for maniac bus drivers racing up behind you.

If you’ve ever ridden a bike in the noonday sun around here, you can probably relate to how it feels like you’re riding a unicycle through melted butter. We set off at 6 AM from Ratmalana so we’d have a few hours of cool air to get as much distance in as possible before the noonday sun hit.

Around Moratuwa, we were passed by a horde of cyclists who were practicing for the races due in the Sinhalese and Tamil new year season. A few of them slowed down to talk to us, and assured us that Galle is quite an achievable target. They also imparted this nugget of wisdom; it’s not a good idea to ride long distances on the highest gear your bike has. It may provide speed but it’s much more taxing to the body than the lower ones. They recommended the middle gear on the front and the highest(smallest) gear on the back. This provided a good balance of speed and ease of riding. Some checking on the internet proved this to be common knowledge among cyclists. We switched to the higher gear whenever we were cresting a hill and the extra speed wasn’t too hard to get.

There are many things to see along the Galle road. It passes right next to the beach for the most part and takes you through many different kinds of beach. From dry, windy stretches of sand to lush green lagoons surrounded by plants, there’s always something to catch your eye. Then there’s always the breakneck speed traffic to keep you alert.

After breakfasting at Payagala, we kept up the pace for about half a kilometer when one of our tires got punctured. In two places. Thankfully you’ll find repair shops in nearly every town you pass. After that setback, we continued through all the way to Hikkaduwa, only stopping for the occasional drink of water, thambili, sugary cool drink or offer of being shown a perfect spot to take a dip in the sea.

Our speed was slowly but steadily reducing as noon approached and by about 1PM, when we were in Hikkaduwa, we decided to take a dip in the sea about a kilometer before Hikka town. There was a bunch of boys already wallowing in the sea there so we assumed it safe. When we got in, we discovered the roughest patch of water we’ve ever been in that wasn’t out at sea. Big waves came in quite regularly, tumbling all in its wake and leaving you sputtering on the beach if you didn’t watch out for it. Of course you could always get up and pretend that it was your intention to be swept onto the sand like that all along.

After that refreshing little washing machine of a beach at Hikka, we continued on to Galle and as we passed the cement sign saying “Galleh”, a new energy coursed through us, possibly insanity, making us race each other the last bit to the fort. Unfortunately for us, the fort was a surprising distance away from the start of Galle and as such, we were nearly winded by the time we crested the hill in front of the Galle Fort Hotel.

But the realization that we had actually made it was enough for a big grin to fix itself on our faces as we pedaled through the suddhas at the fort in our grimy, sweaty state.

Try it, it’s fun.

Total distance covered – ~100km. Total time taken ~8hrs.

What we did after we got to the fort, that’s for another post to tell.

Well, or somewhere close to it. We’ll even settle for Bentota. Come the 29th Friday, we’ll be setting off for Galle, to reach there in time to stare at the Lit fest going on there. The route we’ll be taking will be mostly along the Galle road, and hopefully we’ll find a few shortcuts. There have to be a few by-roads which cut across the curving Galle road, yes?

Everyone is invited to join us on our trip of epic proportions, either to cycle next to us, or throw water at us while we shout “ahh nangiii” at you. Dangers include sunstroke for the weak skinned, shredded limbs, dehydration and cramps for the weak skilled and death by sudden encounter with maniacal bus driver. Brave them. Join us. Prove yourself worthy and find your true self by the ancient rites of the Sinhalaya.

Or at the very least, get a great workout!

(drop a comment, mail us or use the various other wonderous implements of the Age of Information to get in touch)

The beaches of Sri Lanka hold many locations that make you just wish you had an SLR. Or if you’re less photographically inclined, to drool. Mirissa is one such place, just over three hours from Colombo by intercity bus. Lonely beaches, rock pools with clear water and snorkeling opportunities, shallow waters with waves lapping in with just the right amount of force. Take a sporting ball along and you are guaranteed to have a great experience.

Mirissa, primarily, is known as a surfing spot. At least to the scores of foreign surfers who frequent it every year. As far as surfing spots go, its rather on the more challenging side with the rocky reef affording somewhat of a narrow channel to get your board in, translating into a few smashed limbs every year, but that just drags the crowd in.

Surfing lessons should cost you roughly Rs. 1000 per hour. Although if you go in the middle of the season excessive demand for surf lessons may drive the price up. If you’re an experienced surfer, you can rent a board for Rs. 500 from the Surf Bar which is just opposite the main spot of beach where most of the surfing happens.

If you don’t surf, at least bodyboard. Its super fun! And anyone can do it, it’s like riding a bus. To Mirissa, if you will.

The Bus

Mirissa is a town on the Galle-Matara road smack in the middle between Weligama and Walgama.

To get there, we took the 6am Matara bus from Pettah and arrived at around 9:30, even after our original bus broke down. Tickets are Rs. 220 again, and you’re supposed to get off at the Mirissa Junction. Either get the bus conductor to drop you off there(It would be a good idea to temporarily be annoying and keep querying the conductor with “Ayye pahu wunaada?”) or take somebody who knows the place along. Mirissa Junction is not a junction in the conventional sense of the word in that it’s not really a junction at all. It’s just where the concentration of shops increases to a building every ten meters or so.

Directions to the beach

The local three wheelers will keep asking you if you want a ride, but their services won’t be required so you can politely refuse or be all posh and ignore them. Be prepared for stony looks on the way back if you choose the latter.

From the bus stop, walk towards the Matara side for a few meters and you will get to a turnoff that leads to the Paradise hotel. Turn.

After going down the road for a few dozen meters you get to the Paradise Hotel, which is where we entered the beach through. We assume they named the place after it’s location, and not it’s facilities. But then again the facilities weren’t all that bad either. They have a great lunch for Rs. 350, but they fleece you with desert at 200 bucks. The head waiter’s almost manic grin hides this fact. The beach is magnificent, complete with a small rocky island you can climb, pictured on the right in the image above.

The Beach

The beach right in front of Paradise is good for wading out and just messing around in the water. You can even rent body boards for even more fun, though we didn’t get to try that. The water comes up to about chest height when wading out about 30m to sea. The waves are a joy to ride even when you’ve got just your body to ride them with. It’s as fun as it sounds.

All sports you plan to play out on the sand should be done with by around 2pm, when the water starts lapping up on the higher ground of the beach, making running on it feel like you’re ploughing it.

As noted earlier, Mirissa primarily is surfing spot. During the surf season, the area around the rock pool (pictured below) is completely covered with sand, making it easier for surfers. People from all over the world come down here (most people we met were from Europe). The season will be a good time to learn some surfing skills.  Surfs up in a couple of months or so!

Walk along the beach for in the western direction for a few meters and you will come across the Surf Bar, where they have surf boards for rent. It is usually populated by a bunch of people who you can approach to teach you how to surf. Just go over and ask around. Keep walking past the Surf Bar and you will get to The Spot.

The Spot(Rock Pool)

If you get there by morning, this little enclave is sheer bliss to be in. We arrived there around 10am and were nearly speechless at sight. Nearly because no self-respecting sinhalaya brother can have nothing to say at any time. There was the occasional utterance of “Heaven” and “Good God this is brilliant”.

It’s basically a bit of beach that has a long slab of rock that that just beaks the surface of the water at low tide. This created a barrier of sorts, making the space between it and the beach a virtual pool full of clear, slowly flowing water that only reaches up to waist deep at most places. This area is also quite suitable for snorkeling, as even the occasional fish swims past. But as the tide comes in around afternoon, the little barrier island sinks below the waves and the waters of the rock pool become a bit more active and less translucent.

The view from Palace Mirissa

Even further along the beach you’ll get to a place where you find a road leading to the “Palace Mirissa”. This is a boutique hotel with little cottages strewn about built on top of a cliff that opens up to the sea. From inside, you get a fantastic view of the surrounding cliffs and the water crashing onto them. Try bluffing your way in.

The Island

The island is a nice place to go conquer. Or at least pretend to conquer, since many have doubtless been on it before. As evidenced by the concrete stairs at one place.

You can jog up the beach for a few hundred meters to reach it, after which you can wade through the water which reaches around waist height for about ten meters to get to the actual island. It is best to go scout it out in the morning when the tide is low so you get an idea of the path to be taken, as you have to walk along a curved path to avoid deep areas. Look for rocks on the surface of the sand to navigate by. Alternatively, you could just ask someone who hangs around there to guide you. Physically, not spiritually.

All this should be enough to keep anyone occupied for at least a day. We didn’t even try everything that was on offer. Getting back is a cinch because there are A/C buses leaving Matara and other places along the coast at all times of the night. Just get to the junction and wait. Better yet, get to Galle and wait there. As always, confirm directions with as many people as possible. A sort of mental triangulation is what is required.

For more information on where to stay and rates etc, leave comments or mail us!

Cheers!