A week or two ago, we decided we’d sat on our haunches being productive members of society long enough, and asked hiker-extraordinaire Kirigalpoththa if he knew any mountains we could scale.

After deciding on Allagalla, a classical mountain-shaped mound of earth topped by a large pile of rocks, we set off. Alla Galla, literally translates from Sinhalese to “Potato Rock”. On this hike, we discovered many things. Foremost among them that Sri Lanka is truly beautiful, and that Sri Lankans shouldn’t be allowed to name things.

Being Prepared

This particular hike is not too long, and can be easily completed in a day. As such, you’ll only require a bare minimum of supplies. It is always a good idea to carry food for lunch, and always required that each person carries their own bottle of water. Or else you’ll be stuck at the top of the mountain being pelted by rays of sunshine thick enough to walk on. Yes, like the song; except you’ll be deliriously dehydrated, not happy. Other than that, footwear with a good grip, raincoat, light change of clothes, snacks and good cargo pants is more or less all you need.

Getting There

The trail is fairly easy to get to. Your first waypoint is the Ihala Kotte railway station, which is about three stations after the Rambukkana station. It is not a major stop, so make sure you don’t get on an express train. Any slow train that plies the track heading uphill towards Kandy/Badulla will go past this area.

We decided to take the last train out on a Sunday, which was at 11pm from Fort. Its last stop is Rambukkana, so we got off at there at about 1am and decided to spend the night there. After going through the usual ritual of deciding on a place to sleep, then walking all over the place for an hour looking for other places to sleep, we went back to the original place. To sleep.

The original place, in this case, was the train we arrived on, which was stopped overnight in Rambukkana. The doors were open and the lights were on. Thanking the gods of wasted energy we settled in to try and get some sleep on the commuter-train type seats.

There was a train that left Rambukkana at 5am which would take us to Ihala Kotte. We took it.

When you get to Ihala Kotte, look to the left of the railway tracks. Then move your gaze upwards. That is what you are going to climb. It might look terribly daunting because it is a steep face of rock, nothing less, nothing more. Thats why you have to go around it.

Get off the train and head toward Kandy along the tracks for a few meters and you should come across a path heading upwards through the trees to your left (waypoint 2). Head into it.

The Trail

This is the start of the walk to the top. This footpath will lead to Poththepitiya (waypoint 3), a small town on the other side of the mountain. Once you reach it, ask around on how to reach the top. There are a few paths that branch off, and you sometimes have to head down less obvious paths. But you can be assured of there being people in this area, who will usually be plenty helpful with directions.

After getting past the village, you will find yourself heading through some tea plantations (waypoint 4). The road will soon be winding around the mountain. There will be many great views.

Once you get past the tea plantation, you’ll head into thick jungle (waypoint 5). This is the last place you’ll see signs of human residence. Note that this is also the last place you’re likely to find water, so fill up. If you have the luxury of purification tablets, use them. But the water from many springs at this point is drinkable.

Head up the trail and depending on the weather, you might go through a stretch full of leeches. Whether or not these leeches will get to you is directly tied to your hardcoreness-quotient, we’ve found.

As you head higher, the trail will become steeper. And also harder to get through, thanks to it being slowly taken over by thorny bushes on both sides. After about an hour of pushing through all this, you end up near the top. You can see the top, and all that surrounds you is savannah-like grass. Except of course, that is not really the top.

The Top

Allagalla is a peculiar thing. Once you get to the “top” of the hill, there is yet another rock to climb. There is a massive pile of boulders that just sits there and mocks you till you claw your way up the thing.

Thankfully the rock was nice, dry, and conducive to a good grip, and didn’t give us too much trouble climbing. The view from the top is, in one word: spectacularly amazingly awesomeness condensed into a single view from the top of a big rock.

It was that good.

Getting Back

Getting back down should take significantly less time than the climb up. A storm was beginning to brew while we were on the rock and we decided to hightail it down before we were forced to take a ride down the big mudslide the trail was likely to become if it rained. We did get a nice bath on the way down through the tea plantation though.

In total, it took us about five hours to climb, and around three to get all the way down. The elevation at the base is about 380m, and the mountaintop is a good 700-800m up from there. After a quick change of clothes we caught the 4:45 train passing through Ihala Kotte back to Colombo. The train, unfortunately, was packed and we had to stand through most of it.

Note: The last train from Ihala Kotte leaves the station at around 6.30.

This is possibly the best experience we’ve managed to have in a one day trip, and is highly recommended. It’s mad fun.

On the last day of our backpacking venture, after lounging about in Polonnaruwa, we decided to leg it to Badulla to get a desire for some hills and mountains out of our system.

Now Badulla aint no short distance from Polonnaruwa and we found ourselves on the road for a good 5 to 6 hours or so bussing it to Mahiyanganaya and then Badulla. Direct buses from Polonnaruwa to Badulla are less common but Polonnaruwa has a steady stream of buses leaving for Mahiyanganaya from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. But do mind, the last bus to Badulla leaves Mahiyanganaya at about 6 pm.

Badulla Town

Is a pretty modern city. Resthouses are affordable and are easily found after some quick consultation with a friendly tuk tuk driver. We got a comfortable two-bed room for Rs 1000 or so. Food is not included of course but delicious kottu can be had from townside shops.

The weather can get chilly, and a persistent drizzle is common during many months. A raincoat/ umbrella would be handy to have around.

Not Ella

Our original intention was to head over to Ella, a place famous for its natural beauty intertwined with a deep history of lore and er, other such dreamy stuff, but a last minute logistical difficulties forced us to reconsider.

Also, after a week of tiring but happy travel, our city slicker butts were calling out for creature comforts; deeply embarrassing our ‘hardcore’ outer veneers. So when the station master at Badulla railway station said that observation class tickets were only available for Saturday and not Sunday, we seized on the opportunity to leave that very day, convincing ourselves that the famed train ride from Badulla to Colombo in Observation class was worth sacrificing Ella.

It wasn’t of course, nothing short of a life threatening situation is really worth sacrificing Ella for. A day in Ella followed by the train ride we will detail out below would of course have the makings of a perfect trip. But 50% is way better than nothing at all, Confucious say.

The Train

Observation class is the rear end of the train. This end of the carriage is one big glass window affording splendid views of the surrounding countryside. The seats are laid back and comfortable and also feature wider and more tourist friendly windows.

You must ensure to book in advance to be sure of getting one of these coveted seats, especially on weekends. If you are lucky, like we were, you’d be able to snap up a few unbooked seats that sometimes are available. Tickets cost Rs. 750.

The Ride

At first, you may think it romantic to travel in 3rd class seats with first class tickets and you’d be right. Mingling with the people and enjoying the atmosphere of hill country trains can be one of those cliched simple pleasures in life that guide books always talk about. But after a while, 3rd class gets crowded. And you may consider returning to your comfortable first class seats after a while when that old man you are squashed next to starts a coughing fit and that runny nosed little kid wedges himself between you and the window.

The scenery of course, is breathtaking. The railway lines were installed by the Brits roughly two centuries ago to transport tea and coffee crops from the hill country. The train meanders through plantations, tunnels and along ridges that afford sprawling views of waterways and distant hills.

Sit back, relax and enjoy. Take your laptop and 3G dongle if you like. Grab some drinks and food and chill out in observation. The ride takes roughly 10-12 hours and you will soon be overcome with a happy doze as the gentle mountain air caressingly buffets your face.

The legend says that a man hung himself from the tree, but actually what happened there was more chilling than the cold mist surrounding the hills. Around 7 years back a couple of hikers found a dead rotting body of a man beside the tree. It is believed that the man has been killed at the place probably by someone who had been accompanying him. The empty arrack bottle proved that they have had a drink right before the murder. An unsuspecting victim spending the last moments of his life on top of a silent misty hill… It is there that we planned our small trek while we were staying at Nawalapitiya.

You would arrive at Kolapathana after taking roughly a 20 min drive from the Nawalapitiya Town and the mountain is clearly visible to the road unless it’s covered in the thick mist which is quite common in the area. The hill is easy to identify due to the tall turpentine tree which stands as the only signature landmark. The hill could be covered in just a day’s trip; if you properly make the trek you could even cover more distance and go across the mountain in one day. Our objective was to get to the top of the mountain and back down through the same route. However one could reach the top of the mountain and then start descending from the other side of the mountain as there said to be some interesting fauna in the area.

From the foot of the mountain it is around 2 and half hours walk to the top, but the very steep paths make the trek a challenging one. You could opt to take a longer walking route around the mountain through already built roads or you could take the faster route across the tea plantation which is very steep and challenging.  There is no set route to arrive at the top of the mountain. We kept the tree as a guiding beacon and tried to arrive at the place through the best possible route. The tea plantations make it easy for you to get as closer towards the top as possible.  But from there it is a lone walk to the top of the hill where there are no proper paths to follow. However make sure to keep a good mental picture of the location of the tree as sudden mists swallow up any visible landmark in the area.

Once you get to the top it is an awesome sight. If the mist has not covered the region you could see the whole of Kolapathana, some parts of Hatton and a vast region from the mountains. Though from distance it seems very flat on the top, the entire area is covered in tall grass which comes up to your waist and it is advised to take a good bush knife to clear out the path.

If you look around a small distance from the tree there is a cross erected where the murder took place, it would be hard to find it unless you are really lucky as the tall grass and have overtaken the whole area.

Make sure to have raincoats, a good supply of water and some bush knives and anti-leech substance if you are planning to travel across the mountain. As it would take a whole day it is advised to take some food as well. According to people there is the occasional leopard or the wild boar, so keep a cautious heads up not to cross paths with these animals. Mobiles have clear signals at the top of the mountain but make sure that they don’t get drenched in the frequent raining.

We decided to tackle a trek this time over, so we settled on an 11km long hike through forests and hillsides to a cave full of bats and Potassium Nitrate. We are told this cave was mined for gunpowder thousands of years ago to feed the armies of ancient kings. Either that or it was the secret hideout of a diabolical archaic supervillain. We are inclined to believe the latter as it offers far more incentive to visit the cave. That’s not to say the cave doesn’t look amazing by itself, though.

The trek can be undertaken by anyone who takes regular exercise or is reasonably confident of one’s physical ability. You’ll have to travel nearly 2km up a mountainside on steep gradients. The rest is mostly gently sloping paths. Be warned though, the gentle downhill climb of 9 kms in the beginning turns into a torturous uphill trek on the way back that will take you almost twice as long to cover. There will also be leeches and an oceanload of rain if you go in the rainy season. Best months are from June to September, according to Lakdasun.

The complete trail guide can be found here. Get a few copies of it and make sure you don’t get it wet. Best to get a plastic holder for it. It is essential as it contains the directions you will have to take.

Preparation

Items to get would include sufficient food (make sure to pack glucose and energy bars), plenty of water (the streams are drinkable but few and far between) and some first aid things. If you don’t want to donate blood to less than charitable purposes we recommend you prepare some form of leech repellent. We just used ordinary face wash. Leech socks are also essential. Wear shoes that have a good grip and won’t fall apart when roughed up. You’ll need warm clothing for the start of the trail which starts at a higher, colder altitude. Raincoats are very important.

Last but certainly not least, make sure you have arranged reliable transport. We cannot stress this enough. Make sure you get a vehicle to come and wait for you at a predetermined location till you get there. You do not want to be stranded in the middle of the leech infested road at night with heavy rain and not even a cell phone signal for assistance. Your mobile is better switched off to conserve battery power throughout the hike, as there is no signal anywhere and the constant searching eats into precious battery life.

You’re better off doing this hike over the course of two days. Camp out in a hena if you can. Or book rooms in a number of hotels around Corbett’s Gap. However, if you’re physically and otherwise prepared for some rough down and dirty fun; this is a tremendously enjoyable hike to complete in a day.

As you can see above, it is also a great opportunity to photograph things. Or in the case of Kandy, the lack of things.

Getting There

We took the Friday ‘night mail’ train that leaves Fort for Badulla at 8pm. Switched trains at Peradeniya, and arrived at Kandy at around 11. We hired a van from the station to Corbett’s Rest, a lodge near the trail head. Till the cab arrives good food can be had close by. Eat up.

If, like us, your cab arrived at about 1am, you might want to head straight to Corbett’s gap to start the hike. It is recommended that you get the van to arrive as early as possible and get some sleep. If all else fails, catch a few winks in the van itself. It will take about 2 and a half to 3 hours depending on how the road is. Watch out for felled trees in strong winds.

The drive itself is eerie. The darkness all around makes the hills seem spooky and the few human habitats you will see appear positively haunted at that time of night. Sit on the windows or stand on a seat with your body outside to truly experience the howling wind. The journey is beautiful.

Either way, get to Corbett’s gap around 5am if you wish to see a spectacular sunrise. We saw a very mediocre sunrise due to the entire valley being shrouded in mist, though. Corbett’s gap is the highest point on the Meemure-Hunnusgiriya road. You can recognize the place by the shockingly wild winds and the view out over the valley. There is a cement signboard with a map of the locality. There is also a trail leading upwards to the left.

The Hike; Starting off

Corbett’s Gap is the point at which you will start the hike. All the information you require in terms of direction is well provided for by the wonderful people at Lakdasun, so a laminated copy of the trail guide is essential to get around. The first stretch is along a road that leads down to a village called Meemure, itself a popular tourist attraction, but we turn off after five kms into a rougher jeep track that leads through another rural village.

The trail will alternate from views of panoramic mountain ranges and patches of lush forest. Keep your eyes open for the flowers and butterflies. And whatever you do, do not pollute. Leave only your footprints and take only pictures as the saying goes.

The jeep track leads on through cliff edges and more great views of the mountainside and will wind on through the village and some paddy fields. It’s interesting to note that the entire path leading to the foot of the mountains is kept well maintained. It’s trimmed and mostly level. It is also home to many leeches when wet. Be wary of the critters. The jeep track will eventually peter out into a mere footpath and you will arrive at some hena. This is about the point where the rough stretch of the hike will start.

We took this opportunity to chill on a hena and have some brunch. There are cows and buffaloes grazing near by but they are generally harmless (to those unacquainted with the disposition of farm animals). There’s a great and imposing view of Lakegala and the open sky that we enjoyed while getting slightly high on a well placed rock nearby.

The locals are very obliging with smiles, directions and water. We don’t know if they’d have been obliging with anything else because that’s all we asked for during the trip.

To the Nitro cave

The last stretch of the hike is a vague footpath that winds through jungle for about 2kms, in the course of this you will climb roughly an altitude of about 250 meters, which is not a very easy joke. Make sure you get staffs if required and proceed in a disciplined line. Ensure you have plenty of water.

There is an excellent ‘bathing spot’ right where the climb starts. Its great to have a bath after you visit the cave on the way down if, like us, you venture inside and experience the bat residue in your efforts to see what lies inside. But more on that soon.

The trail may appear to go on forever and there is a point where you may have some difficulty locating it. But keep going upwards and stick to your directions and you will eventually end up at two large, and we mean massive, trees light gray in color. They look like they’ve been put there on purpose to mark the spot. There will also be small milepost-like stones with something between 1-3km written on them along the path. Beyond the trees there are some big boulders and once you pass through them you are confronted with the Nitro cave. Its a sight.

It is located at the bottom of a sheer rock cliff and it is basically a gaping cavernous hole. There is a steep ledge to get over if you want to climb up to the entrance. Beware the bats who will by this time be getting excited by your presence. But they are mostly harmless, we just decided to fall flat on the ground if they tried to ‘attack’ but mostly they only flew above us creating a lot of racket.

Watch out for wasps. But the nests we saw appeared empty so we just risked it. Only four of us entered the caves. And unfortunately none of us had a camera. But we explored the interior of the opening cavern and found that three smaller caves lead off into the dark beyond. There are also various crevices and nooks from which bats kept pouring out by the hundred. Expect to see a lot of excited bats. We were not able to confirm whether this was the site of batman’s first encounter with the flying foxes.

The Way Back

The route you take when starting the hike primarily heads downhill. The lowest point of it is the ‘bathing spot’ mentioned earlier. After that the trail climbs again steeply to the Nitro Cave. What you have to remember is that you have an almost 10km long uphill climb on the way back to Corbett’s Gap. We were almost stranded on the mountain in the rain and the dark, but luckily we received a lift from a passing van. You can also use a jeep to get around up and down on this stretch, but hiking is recommended. Cos It’s more fun that way.