Now I’m sure that fort over there is plenty for anybody to look at and all, but what can you really do in Galle? We spent two days there and discovered a few nooks and crannies. Granted most of these nooks were in the Galle Literary Festival, which none of us really took much notice of. As such, the next post is probably going to be a contribution by someone who did take part in a few of the events at the famed GLF. Don’t worry, we haven’t gone soft; this post is about “Jungle Beach”. The name itself screams adventure does it not?

Jungle Beach

So after we rode around the fort for a while and soaked up all the magnificent architecture we could without feeling like constructing the Parthenon with our tent at night, we decided to venture out of the protective walls of the great fort and actually do something. We had heard of a place called Jungle Beach, supposedly an amazing spot to take a dip and just a few minutes out of Galle.

Getting There

Head towards Matara from Galle for a few kilometers(sadly we could not find out the exact number) and you will reach the Ruhunu Cement Factory, technically in Unawatuna. A few meters past this, you will see a road to the right, ask the locals and they will direct you to this turnoff. Everyone in the area seems to recognize the name “Jungle Beach”. Head straight along this road. About a hundred meters in you will face a steep climb going on for a few hundred meters. Dragging bicycles up this makes it feel like a few kilometers. A brave few might try to ride up this steep gradient on a low gear but will give up approximately sixty seconds into this excruciatingly difficult exercise.

This hill turned out to be none other than the Rumassala mountain, supposedly dropped from the grocery bag by Hanuman on his way to a great big continental kitchen.

After a while, the climb becomes less steep and you come to a point on the road where you get a spectacular view overlooking the two stretches of beach that make up Jungle Beach. This is the point where you realize that when they say Jungle, they mean jungle. Not just any jungle either. This is thick jungle on the side of a mountain which requires a man-made path to make headway in. The entire thing is covered in thick greenery like a green afro.

You will end up at a Buddhist temple built with Japanese aid. From here, there will be a little path into the jungle on the right side of the road directly in front of the temple. Head into this path. It is rocky and slippery and in some places overgrown with bushes. You won’t come across snakes or leopards but you will occasionally come across a couple or two making their way on to a lonely rock overseeing the ocean for some “quality time”.

Keep on this path, and you will finally arrive at Jungle Beach. After you confirm that it was indeed worth the trek down the scratchy path, you may take a dip in the cool blue waters. Be warned though, it is only shallow for a distance of about twenty meters out to sea. After that it gets quite deep and choppy. When we got there a German expat who owned a local guest house and was taking a dip in the sea himself gave us some information on the place. Apart from a Navy boat hanging about a hundred meters out, there was nobody else there.

In and Around the Fort

The Galle fort is a fascinating place. It is a functioning part of the Galle city enclosed within the great walls of an old Dutch fort. It is littered with remnants of that era such as the crumbling ramparts themselves and various other buildings dotting the place. Nearly all the buildings in the fort look like they were built by people wearing wooden clogs, but most are relatively new and just made to look like that.

Camping in the Fort

We asked around for places to camp in the fort and were mostly met with blank looks. Most people just didn’t know if it was okay to camp out there. Since we weren’t told not to do it either, we decided to see what happens and just set up the tent on the eastern ramparts. Now that’s one morning view you won’t soon forget. There doesn’t seem to be any opposition to camping around the fort as we did so on two consecutive nights and nobody said anything.

Transport to Galle

If you want to cycle around Galle but are not too fond of sunburn from cycling a hundred odd kilometers from Colombo, you can get the bikes sent via train for a fee of around Rs. 300. Just go to the Colombo Fort railway station’s parcel building(The one towards Pettah, behind the Manning Market) and hand it in. Make sure you have a license for it though, as they are required and quite easy to get at your local Grama Niladhari’s office. They cost a pittance.

The same can be done for bikes being sent from Galle to Colombo. Just try your best to get a license for your bike.

There’s probably more to Galle than Jungle Beach, but we are yet to discover it. Maybe a later trip. For now, have fun at Jungle Beach.

So we went to Galle; via mountain bike. Most of you probably know by now since we surrounded it with as much fanfare as we could, when we weren’t forced to take our bikes into the nearest winkle because parts kept falling off. Surprisingly enough, it wasn’t as taxing as we expected, and Sri Lanka really is that small.

Preparation

First and foremost, bikes. We had regular 21-speed mountain bikes. But the other, cruiser type bikes are easier to ride long distances. Alas, we couldn’t get our hands on a couple. Make sure your bikes are up to the task. Ninety percent of bikes we encountered in the last few months had something broken. Most bikes had problems with the gear system, either not switching gears or having worn out cogs and chains.

For cycling long distances, the higher gears are essential. Take your bike out for a run and check that the chain doesn’t slip when going faster. Most repairs in these parts are cheap. The front cog-wheel set is about Rs. 450 for a new one, and a rear cog-wheel set is around Rs. 280. The chain retails for 200 bucks. Fitting shouldn’t cost much either.

Other areas to check are of course the wheels. If your tires keep going flat by the end of the day, you aren’t going to be able to make it past Kalutara. There are plenty of other things that can go wrong but you’ll just have to use your common sense.

Carry a few tools, like a suitably sized box spanner and wrench. Flat head and Philips head screwdrivers will also be useful. And if you have one, take a properly sized Alan Key for that screw dead in the middle of your handlebars that keeps the steering intact.

Apart from this, take the usual things like a bottle of water each. As for fitness, if you ride regularly, or are at a decent level of fitness, you should be able to make it. We aren’t exactly fitness buffs and we weren’t exactly worn out by the end.

The Route

We took the Galle road, since it was the most direct path to Galle. We were told there are many smaller roads running parallel to it, but those would likely have hindered our progress. The Friday that we set off on was a poya day. But since it made a long weekend, we’re doubtful about it alleviating traffic. We didn’t come across any life-threatening situations, but it would be wise to always keep an ear out for maniac bus drivers racing up behind you.

If you’ve ever ridden a bike in the noonday sun around here, you can probably relate to how it feels like you’re riding a unicycle through melted butter. We set off at 6 AM from Ratmalana so we’d have a few hours of cool air to get as much distance in as possible before the noonday sun hit.

Around Moratuwa, we were passed by a horde of cyclists who were practicing for the races due in the Sinhalese and Tamil new year season. A few of them slowed down to talk to us, and assured us that Galle is quite an achievable target. They also imparted this nugget of wisdom; it’s not a good idea to ride long distances on the highest gear your bike has. It may provide speed but it’s much more taxing to the body than the lower ones. They recommended the middle gear on the front and the highest(smallest) gear on the back. This provided a good balance of speed and ease of riding. Some checking on the internet proved this to be common knowledge among cyclists. We switched to the higher gear whenever we were cresting a hill and the extra speed wasn’t too hard to get.

There are many things to see along the Galle road. It passes right next to the beach for the most part and takes you through many different kinds of beach. From dry, windy stretches of sand to lush green lagoons surrounded by plants, there’s always something to catch your eye. Then there’s always the breakneck speed traffic to keep you alert.

After breakfasting at Payagala, we kept up the pace for about half a kilometer when one of our tires got punctured. In two places. Thankfully you’ll find repair shops in nearly every town you pass. After that setback, we continued through all the way to Hikkaduwa, only stopping for the occasional drink of water, thambili, sugary cool drink or offer of being shown a perfect spot to take a dip in the sea.

Our speed was slowly but steadily reducing as noon approached and by about 1PM, when we were in Hikkaduwa, we decided to take a dip in the sea about a kilometer before Hikka town. There was a bunch of boys already wallowing in the sea there so we assumed it safe. When we got in, we discovered the roughest patch of water we’ve ever been in that wasn’t out at sea. Big waves came in quite regularly, tumbling all in its wake and leaving you sputtering on the beach if you didn’t watch out for it. Of course you could always get up and pretend that it was your intention to be swept onto the sand like that all along.

After that refreshing little washing machine of a beach at Hikka, we continued on to Galle and as we passed the cement sign saying “Galleh”, a new energy coursed through us, possibly insanity, making us race each other the last bit to the fort. Unfortunately for us, the fort was a surprising distance away from the start of Galle and as such, we were nearly winded by the time we crested the hill in front of the Galle Fort Hotel.

But the realization that we had actually made it was enough for a big grin to fix itself on our faces as we pedaled through the suddhas at the fort in our grimy, sweaty state.

Try it, it’s fun.

Total distance covered – ~100km. Total time taken ~8hrs.

What we did after we got to the fort, that’s for another post to tell.

An empty day provides a great opportunity to cycle through and explore the more urban areas of  Colombo without the usual heavy bustle and activity impeding your progress and threatening your life every few metres or so.

We took our rides out on the day after elections, but you don’t have to wait till the next election comes along to get your game on, just try on any Poya Day or even a Sunday.

Marine Drive

Marine Drive boasts scenic views of the ocean around Wellawatte and is a great place for a walk, jog or in this case a bike ride at practically any time or day of the week.

The beach is mostly reinforced with rocks except for around the area surrounding the railway station, which is a popular spot for bathers, families and would be touch ruggerites.

Galle Face/ Fort

Galle Face, until recently guarded by soldiers armed to the teeth watching you like hawks, is now only guarded by the said same soldiers with similar weapons watching you like owls. Which is slightly less unsettling.

Ride along the tree-lined Galle Road or park your bike and take a walk along the rocky coast and grassy lawn. Bikes aren’t allowed down the road leading right next to the water as yet. Perhaps the archaic reasoning behind such a measure will meet the destructive heat of logic soon.

Photography is still frowned upon. So make sure to take any photographs  after obtaining a nod of approval from any nearby army personnel.

Fort is an island that the Dutch fortified. The name has stuck, as is obvious. There are several bridges leading into it and its massive buildings of Dutch architecture are a treat to look at.

More interesting areas like the harbour are as yet blocked to the public.

Pettah and surrounding areas.

‘Pettah’ is a generic name for an area surrounding a fort and another testimony to a dearth of creative copywriters during ancient times. Pettah is a bustling market town with a myriad of criss-crossing streets that are virtually brimming with crowds during business days.

The nataami’s and their self-propelled carts are a unique sight seen only in Pettah. But be warned, they are about as reckless as the average Sri Lankan tuktuk/bus/car driver during market days.

The Dutch Museum is a good place to visit for some archaic architecture and to relieve your eyes from the sight of  garish signboards. Although its closed on major holidays.

Eating

There is many a food joint in these areas but a wise traveller will take care; good places are hard to find. We recommend Vani Villas which is a great Indian restaurant situated along Armour Street. Their vegetarian rice and curry is particularly good.

Temple, Kelaniya

Among the chief attractions of Kelaniya are the famous Kelani river and almost equally famous Kelani Temple or Kelaniya Raja Maha Viharaya. To get there, go along the Kandy Road past the Kelaniya bridge, you will come across the turn off to the temple after about 200 meters. The Temple is roughly 4km along this road.

The Kelaniya Temple has a history that dates back to 500BC and the Buddha is thought to have hallowed it eight years after reaching enlightenment. The temple prospered under the Kotte era but invading Portugese almost razed it to the ground (if its murals are anything to go by). Later on, the Dutch help restore it to prominence.

Walk about its peaceful surroundings. The stupa, though not overly big, looks majestic on a sunny day. Paintings cover the interior of the temple proper and murals depicting scenes from history grace its walls. They are sure to get the art connoisseur in you fascinated in short order.

Footwear and bikes must be left outside.

Railway Quarters, Dematagoda

Tucked into a little known corner of Dematagoda lies a secluded collection of houses that date possibly from the beginning of the last century. They are placed along tree lined streets that will leave you slightly bemused when you step into them directly off the busy Baseline Road. Right before the flyover when coming from Borelle, there are a few ancient looking houses and a road to your left. The entire neighborhood consists of houses that make you feel like you stepped into a Carl Muller novel. It’s almost enough to make you demand bread for 25 cents at the corner shop.

Ride along the tree lined streets and have a rest on some dead leaves. Try and act suspicious to have the extremely rewarding experience of having an irate housewife chase you off. Take pictures with permission, if possible.

A while back, we decided to take a few bikes and just go cycling around the outskirts of Colombo. We just remembered to put the post up yesterday.

So anyway, for cycling trips, depending on the length and location of your path, always carry enough water. A bottle each should be fine, as you can get refills from around. Food isn’t necessary, but if you’re going somewhere remote, better pack a few biscuits or something. As for the bikes themselves, make sure they’re in good condition as getting stuck in the middle of nowhere with a broken bike to lug around is undesirable.

Take it over to a bicycle repair shop nearby and ask him to give it a once-over. Don’t  come across as a complete bicycle-noob and you (probably) won’t be fleeced. Bicycle repairs are one thing that is still cheap in this country; most minor repairs take 10-20 rupees. Parts are available at hardware stores and are typically around Rs. 250 for a chain and Rs. 450 for a set of cog wheels. Cheap.

In case you do need to do a few repairs en route, better carry a suitable sized wrench at the least and an entire toolbox at most. Most of the outskirts have bicycle repair shops around, just ask the locals.

Good backpacks are essential. But remember to pack light and take small day packs. Sunglasses too as long exposure to Colombo’s sun is not very friendly on the eyes during most of the year. And sunscreen if you’re into that kind of thing.

Routes

Planning a route is not that hard. Just pick an interesting enough area and you’ll find plenty of paths to ride down. We decided to start from Battaramulle. Our original intention was to get to the Kelani Temple, but we ended up passing through Hokandara, somewhere near Athurugiriya and then back to Battaramulle through Kaduwela and Malabe. Only the last leg of our journey was on the main Kaduwela road.

The North East suburbs, through which we traversed are rich in greenery. Paddy fields line the dirt roads that lead through villages and the occasional upmarket gated community.

Things To Do

When we set off, we had a vague idea of just heading East till we got to the Kelani River, cross, then head over to the Temple. We ended up going through Hokandara, ending up in some place we didn’t have any idea about, passed through a few housing schemes, wallowed in a muddy field, plummeted down a few hills and even managed to get drenched in the rain.

There are some really beautiful places all over Sri Lanka, and they’re not all outside of Colombo. Just try your luck and you’ll be surprised with small paths through paddy fields, great sunsets from atop hills and lush green landscapes. Most of the country is still covered in green, as evident through a cursory Google maps search for say, cycling routes.

Just explore, have fun. If you don’t find anything interesting, you can always just pedal somewhere else. Some interesting places you can try and cycle through include Colombo Fort, the marshland near and around the Bera lake and the areas further away to the North en route to Negombo.